How many kinds of clam chowder are there anyway?
Most people think of New England and Manhattan here in the states – there’s also a “Rhode Island” version that I know of and then a bunch of versions in between.
Basically
New England = Cream Based
Manhattan = Tomato Based
Rhode Island = Fish Stock
Everything else = frills
For the record, I’m New England – the others are good in their own right, but New England is what I think of when one says “chowder” – the others are a different kind of soup no matter what anyone else says to me.
Any soup done well is a wonderful thing. Most soups today are done so they’re palatable. Just look behind the counter of a Panera any day of the week and you’ll see why – you’ll spy the large industrial-strength plastic pouches that contain the homogenized never-seperating insta-heat soups. These soups will look good and have a decent texture, but they’ll never be all that fantastic.
This is what most clam chowder is – an overly creamy gloop of a soup that is never going to separate and is nearly devoid of any clam flavor, but will hold oyster crackers like no ones business.
It’s becoming more and more difficult to find someone who makes really good soups anymore. The ingredients for a clam chowder aren’t all that cheap – not expensive, but not cheap either. When you’re looking at dicing bacon, onions and garlic for flavoring and then adding clams, clam juice, cream, and potatoes – well, you’ve got a bit wrapped up in some soup. And it won’t be as perfectly smooth as a canned soup – because that takes time and effort. Sometimes, things refuse to come together and your soup isn’t so great…at that point, premade soup doesn’t seem so bad, does it?
But that’s just it – not so bad is not the same as really great soup. I don’t know how many folks watch Top Chef, but on the Chicago season, I have to admit that when the boys did their squash soup by hand, they had a thing of poetry going. I’m getting a bit off track here, but in this episode, the guys found out that they had none of their high-tech toys for cooking at the last second. That meant no industrial-strength blender for the even puree of a soup and that perfect creaminess you seem to only be able to get in a restaurant. So what are Top Chefs to do? Everything by hand – as they put it, people had been making soup for hundreds of years. If you got nothing else from that episode, you should have learned to demand more from a restaurant when it came to soup.
Which brings me back to clam chowder. It’s on practically every single menu in a sit-down restaurant that serves general cuisine. Mostly because everyone seems to love clam chowder. At the same time, most of these people seem more than happy to serve you a clam chowder you won’t be happy with.
But every once in a while, you’ll find a place that serves you one that you are happy with. Nine times out of ten, this place also serves hot bread with the soup – a nice crusty loaf that you can dip into your soup which isn’t too creamy and every once in a while comes up with a chunk of bacon. If you’re really lucky, it’s obvious that the clams were, in fact, fresh. If you’re very lucky, you’ll get to the bottom of your bowl before you know it because it was that good…